Fir Cone Lace Shawl Using Jamieson's Ultra
Fir Cone Lace Shawl Using Jamieson's Ultra
Fir Cone Lace Shawl Using Jamieson's Ultra
Fir Cone Lace Shawl Using Jamieson's Ultra
The Design
“Romantic lace in Shetland wool.”
We think the classic eyelet pattern of our Fir Cone Lace Shawl is the definition of romantic. It’s fine enough to be beautifully lacy and opaque enough to be cozy! Designer Becky ffitch was inspired by Shetland lace patterns found in historic stitch dictionaries—so we love the nod to tradition, too!
Of course, for a Shetland lace pattern, we had to choose a classic Shetland Wool—Jamieson’s Ultra. It’s a fingering-weight blend of half lamb’s wool and half wool from Shetland sheep—the same wool we love in Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift and Shetland Heather Aran! Shorn from a diminutive breed of sheep that’s adapted to the rugged Shetland Isles in the North Sea, the hardy fleece is springy, lofty, and lightweight. It’s perfect for intricate lace projects and pieces you’d like to be both light and warm!
The Details
FINISHED SIZE
Approx. 19 x 80"/48 x 203cm, after blocking.
YARN
7 skeins Jamieson’s Shetland Ultra (210 yds /192m each); or approx. 1470 yds/1345m of an equivalent lace-weight yarn.
Shown above in Color 102 Shaela.
NEEDLES & NOTIONS
US 4 (3.5mm) needles, or size to obtain gauge.
Plus spare needle same size or smaller.
4 locking stitch markers.
Darning needle to finish.
Blocking wires and/or T-pins.
GAUGE
Approx. 24 sts = 4"/10cm in Fir Cone lace pattern, after blocking.
KNITTER'S NOTES
The Fir Cone stitch pattern is a multiple of 10 + 5. Each 10-st repeat of the lace pattern is picked up from two repeats of the edging (two points). Thus, to widen the scarf, you must work two additional edging points for each additional 10-st repeat of the pattern.
Because this piece is done in garter stitch, it will be difficult to distinguish the 'right' side from the 'wrong' side. For this reason, put a safety pin or locking marker on the right side—the side on which you pattern (odd numbered rows). That way, when the side with the marker is facing you, you know you are knitting an odd-numbered row.
When blocking, lay the piece out to the correct (or desired) length first, then really stretch it out for width. This is because it will tend to stretch quite a bit lengthwise, so you need to control that, and get as much width as possible. Use pins to pull out the points of the lace edging and the scallops along the side.
Read description
The Design
“Romantic lace in Shetland wool.”
We think the classic eyelet pattern of our Fir Cone Lace Shawl is the definition of romantic. It’s fine enough to be beautifully lacy and opaque enough to be cozy! Designer Becky ffitch was inspired by Shetland lace patterns found in historic stitch dictionaries—so we love the nod to tradition, too!
Of course, for a Shetland lace pattern, we had to choose a classic Shetland Wool—Jamieson’s Ultra. It’s a fingering-weight blend of half lamb’s wool and half wool from Shetland sheep—the same wool we love in Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift and Shetland Heather Aran! Shorn from a diminutive breed of sheep that’s adapted to the rugged Shetland Isles in the North Sea, the hardy fleece is springy, lofty, and lightweight. It’s perfect for intricate lace projects and pieces you’d like to be both light and warm!
The Details
FINISHED SIZE
Approx. 19 x 80"/48 x 203cm, after blocking.
YARN
7 skeins Jamieson’s Shetland Ultra (210 yds /192m each); or approx. 1470 yds/1345m of an equivalent lace-weight yarn.
Shown above in Color 102 Shaela.
NEEDLES & NOTIONS
US 4 (3.5mm) needles, or size to obtain gauge.
Plus spare needle same size or smaller.
4 locking stitch markers.
Darning needle to finish.
Blocking wires and/or T-pins.
GAUGE
Approx. 24 sts = 4"/10cm in Fir Cone lace pattern, after blocking.
KNITTER'S NOTES
The Fir Cone stitch pattern is a multiple of 10 + 5. Each 10-st repeat of the lace pattern is picked up from two repeats of the edging (two points). Thus, to widen the scarf, you must work two additional edging points for each additional 10-st repeat of the pattern.
Because this piece is done in garter stitch, it will be difficult to distinguish the 'right' side from the 'wrong' side. For this reason, put a safety pin or locking marker on the right side—the side on which you pattern (odd numbered rows). That way, when the side with the marker is facing you, you know you are knitting an odd-numbered row.
When blocking, lay the piece out to the correct (or desired) length first, then really stretch it out for width. This is because it will tend to stretch quite a bit lengthwise, so you need to control that, and get as much width as possible. Use pins to pull out the points of the lace edging and the scallops along the side.
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